Blog > acclimatization

July 22, 2014

Alex Gavan summited Broad Peak (8047m)

Alex Gavan topped out Broad Peak (8047m) on July 23, 3.30 p.m., Pakistani time (13.30 Romania's time). It is his sixth 8000m peak climbed without supplementary oxygen and Sherpa support. Alex spent last night in Camp 3 (7040m) ...
July 16, 2014

Summit window - likely around 22 July

All these days, there have been high winds and snowfall at altitude, on Broad Peak. The weather forecast shows there might be a short summit window around July 22nd. Alex is preparing to launch a summit push together with his ...
July 10, 2014

Acclimatisation done, ready for the summit

Alex is back in Broad Peak Base Camp now, since July 9th, afternoon.   Alex Gavan and Gavin Vickers left the Base Camp for Camp 2 on July 6th. Between Camp 1 and Camp 2 they encountered blizzard conditions.   On July 7th, ...
July 6, 2014

Alex resumed acclimatisation climb

Alex Gavan and Gavin Vickers left Broad Peak Base Camp early this morning and headed straight to Camp 2.  They intend to spend the night there and then climb up and establish Camp 3 at around 7100m for two more acclimatisation ...
July 3, 2014

Short notes from Broad Peak Base Camp (3)

I was getting my blood moving yesterday, by going up the glacier, through the snow fall, to K2 Base Camp, to visit my friends Tamara Lunger, Pawel Michalski and Simone la Terra. It snowed all night and, in the morning, I heard ...
June 30, 2014

Alex, unroped from Base Camp to Camp 2

Mladen Dankov, Gavin Vickers and Alex Gavan came down to Broad Peak Base Camp (4950m) yesterday morning, within the acclimatisation process. Although the initial plan was to only set Camp 1 (5500m) and spend the night, they ...
June 26, 2014

Acclimatisation climb starts

Alex Gavan and Gavin Vickers left this morning  for their first acclimatisation climb on Broad Peak. Their current plan is to set up  Camp 1 at 5600m altitude and spend one night there. Two more acclimatisation camps will be set ...
June 25, 2014

Short notes from Broad Peak BC (2)

While acclimatising, each time before setting up for the first time for a big climb, I purposely leave some things to be done into the base camp, and not at home. For a few good hours I dive into my tent. Sharpening my crampons ...
June 24, 2014

Short notes from Broad Peak BC (1)

Monday night I had the first glimpse of Broad Peak from Goro 2 For merely half a minute the clouds parted and all I could see was just the very top. It was a sight belonging rather to the sky than to the earth. Yesterday ...
June 9, 2014

Comunicat de presa

București, 10 iunie 2014 Alpinistul de altitudine Alex Găvan - o nouă expediție în munții Karakorum pentru a urca vârful Broad Peak (8047m)   Alpinistul Alex Găvan, unul din performerii de top ai României la altitudine extremă, ...

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