Kangchenjunga
8586m

  • Himalayas, Nepal/India

Kangchenjunga 2011 expedition

In March-May 2011 Alex Gavan will attempt Kangchenjunga aiming as well for the First Romanian Ascent of the world’s third highest mountain. His partner will again be his Polish friend Pawel Michalski. The extended team is comprised by Italians Mario Panzeri and Antonello Martines. The expedition will start on March 21st and it is planned to last for 60 days. The team of four intends to reach the summit in the first part of May.

June 16, 2011

Guess who's back in town and #live on @radioguerrilla!!! (Alex Gavan Support Team) http://t.co/7x7mr86

June 15, 2011

Back to Bucharest. Live on Radio Guerrilla

Audio File

May 24, 2011

We left Base Camp in the very morning after 46 days spent at over 5400m on Himalaya's Kangchenjunga. I shall reach home in about two weeks.

May 23, 2011

Oscar, Antonello, Dawa and myself stayed all night in BC with Serbian Dragan. Criticaly ill. Both pulmonary and cerebral edema.

May 23, 2011

Gave all night oxygen, some time 4 l/minute, injectable dex and nifedipine. Waiting for helicopter. Had been an extremly close call.

May 22, 2011

A dangerous cloudy conditions helicopter rescue is just underway at 7000m on Kang for Cleo Weidlich client of the commercial expedition.

May 21, 2011

The whole context up here is shouting at us loudly that Pawel and myself are going to have an Episode No. 2 on Kang next Spring as well.

May 21, 2011

Pawel just went safely down to BC all the way from 7400m. Very tired but ok. Drinking his green tea now.

May 20, 2011

Azim Gheychisaz, using no O2, first Iranian on Kang. No reliable info about the French. People expected coming down to BC tomorrow.

May 20, 2011

Almost all people using oxygen made it to the summit. Spanish star Oscar Cadiach, using no O2, turned back for now the 3rd time on Kang :(

May 20, 2011

Out of the 9 person Russian team (comprising Christian Stangl as well), Alexey Bolotov, Nikolay Totmyanin and Israfil Ashurly (later using

May 20, 2011

oxygen), made the top.Christian as well but apparently with frostbite. Star Gleb Sokolov turned back due to stomach problems similar to mine

May 20, 2011

The other Russians had similar stomach problems but turned back due to frostbite danger.

May 20, 2011

Mario Panzeri made the top, apparently got some frostbite; Antonello Martines had to turn back. No further info yet.

May 20, 2011

Pawel is now in Camp 4, very tired but ok, coming down to Base Camp tomorrow.

May 20, 2011

Pawel turned back at 8400m, 186m short from the top; considered not having enough time to summit and turn back safely; details coming soon.

May 19, 2011

My support team in Bucharest just told me what a wonderful surprise awaits me on my two FB walls: so many b-day wishes! I am deeply

May 19, 2011

touched by your thoughts and by your trust. I am looking fwd to reading all of your messages asap I'll have net acces. Thank u all so much!

May 19, 2011

Pawel just reached C4, feeling strong, leaving in a few hours for the summit together with the others. Keeping fingers tightly crossed!

May 19, 2011

Seems also 3 French climbers together with 3 Sherpas made it to the top today, apparently using supplementary oxygen. Details still unclear.

May 19, 2011

Alexey Bolotov summited today Kangchenjunga in bad weather conditions. Congrats from all my heart, you really really deserved it, Alexey!

May 19, 2011

Around 50 people (most of them on supplementary oxygen) now up the mountain in one of the most massive summit pushes in Kang history.

May 19, 2011

Sitting alone in a deserted BC, no radio contact yet, snowing heavily, pretty frustrated not being up there in the middle of the action.

May 18, 2011

Oscar Cadiach, Mario Panzeri, Azim Gheychisaz and Alexey Bolotov&Co in C4. Wanted to leave for the summit tonight. On hold due to strong ...

May 18, 2011

100km/hour winds in C3-7000m @ Kangchenjunga. If weather better Pawel&guys will move to C4 tomorrow and start for the summit in the evening.

May 18, 2011

Now myself in stand by, I'll have a go or non go after fresh info on how the things are developing up. Nasty season but not ready giving up.

May 18, 2011

Weather still permitting I'll go back up again in 2,3 days. Now heavily snowing in BC but reportedly good weather in C4. Crossing fingers..

May 17, 2011

Just went down to BC half an hour ago due to stomach problems while climbing between C2 and C3. Felt ill and weak beyound any hope of going

May 17, 2011

higher. Almost 60 days of expedition plus so much time, training, money, energy and faith involved for having now all the chances of missing

May 17, 2011

the only fair window of good weather on Kang this season. Pawel in C3 now, I hope tomorrow evening he will start for the summit from C4.

May 16, 2011

KANG SUMMIT PUSH. C1. Witnessed a magnificent sunset, almost full moon, not a gust of wind. Managed to split the soup for the second time.

May 15, 2011

Tomorrow starting for the summit.Conditions permitting,hope we'll reach it on May19th.Alexey Bolotov&co tried yesterday but seems nosucces:(

May 11, 2011

Tomorrow should have started for the summit but for the May 15th 60+ km/hour strong winds forcasted on 8000m. On hold.Must choose wisely ΛΛΛ

May 9, 2011

Ready for the summit! Alex Gavan on Radio Guerrilla (in Romanian)

Audio File

May 8, 2011

C3 established, waiting for the summit push

Our plan for this climb up the mountain was to complete our acclimatization process and put ourselves in the position to have a try at the summit.  To do that, we wanted to sleep one night at 7000m and reach the next day around ...
May 8, 2011

Down to BC from 7000m after one of the windiest nights I've had in the Himalayas.Almost had no sleep. Dead tired. Photos/story coming soon.

May 7, 2011

With Pawel in C3-7000m on Kangch. Tiny litle tent, barely able to move inside, loads of condensation, soaking us wet. True masochistical.

May 6, 2011

Just arrived in C2 from BC.One umpleasant surprise among many: Sherpas from Seven Summit "borrowed" our stove for C3.At this altitude=crime.

May 2, 2011

Mountain conditions permitting we'll start for Camp 3-7100m the day after tomorrow. Luckily will then have our acclimatization completed.

April 30, 2011

The second biggest avalanche I saw in my life just came down thundering the walls of Talung-7349m before dinner. What a speechless sight!

April 29, 2011

Each evening, Sherpas of the international team burn incence on the Buddhist shrine close to my tent. Can feel the smell through the mist..

April 28, 2011

Latest forecast: today starting 7 days of snowfall; hope this is wrong or it seems we are going to have sharpened our patience skills. ZEN

April 26, 2011

Waiting in the base camp for the weather to improve - Alex Gavan on Radio Guerrilla (in Romanian)

Audio File

April 25, 2011
Alex on the way to C1

Camp 2 established but still no Camp 3

Our plan was to go as far as 7150m and establish Camp 3 spending as well one night there for completing our acclimatization.   We just got up to Camp 2 at around 6400m.  Throughout the night, significant amounts of snow fall ...
April 25, 2011

Went down to BC. Snowed all the night, avalanche danger above C2+could not see a thing out of the route. Knee length deep snow.Quite tiring.

April 24, 2011

Camp 2, 6400m. Happy Easter everyone! Snowing and we can't see a thing. Mild headache last night. But it's so wonderful to be up here.

April 23, 2011

Camp 1-6170m. Managed to split the water on the tent's floor while trying to melt some snow. Disaster:) Anyone send us some red eggs?

April 22, 2011

Mildly snowing. Climbing up tomorrow morning. Seems like we're going to have a pretty high Himalayan Easter at 7150m on Kangchenjunga.

April 21, 2011

Strong winds at high altitude; we might also alter a bit our overall acclimatisation/climbing strategy. Next up for sleeping in C3 at 7150m.

April 19, 2011

Alex Gavan on Radio Guerrilla, about his expedition plans (in Romanian)

Audio File

April 19, 2011

Strong wind in C1 yesterday afternoon. Hope our tent is still there. Now mildly snowing in BC. Today saw the big eagle again. Impressive.

April 17, 2011

Stories from Camp 1 (6173) and Base Camp

On the 16th Mario, Anselm, Pawel and myself climbed up to C1 at about 6173m. Mario went down the same day to BC but the rest of us chose to spend the night there for acclimatization. We were the only ones that night at C1, ...
April 17, 2011

Got down to BC. For the moment only the Russian's tents as well as our's up in C1. Going to have a good (so called) shower. Photos coming...

April 16, 2011

Came up to C1 at 6173m in superb climbing conditions. We'll have the night spent there for acclimatisation. Pawel just become an uncle :)

April 15, 2011

Yeap, tomorrow definetely going up to C1: Mario, Anselm, Pawel and myself. Antonello down to 3000m to recover after some health problems.

April 12, 2011

Getting ready for Camp 1 - 6200m

Well, it's already too long since we're waiting for the good weather in the BC. But that is a part of the high altitude waiting "game". We'll try to seize the first opportunity to go up. In the meantime we sorted out the gear we ...
April 12, 2011

Snowing again. Some avalanches down the walls. All my stuff in BC. Missing the snow bars only. Can't wait going up. Jordi Savall on my iPod.

April 10, 2011
Alex and Pawel

First thoughts from Kangchenjunga Base Camp

We finally managed to reach base camp on the evening of April 8th in quite bad weather.   Kangchenjunga has some of the most astonishing scenery I have ever encountered in a base camp. I'll let you discover part of it through ...
April 10, 2011

Loads and loads of snow as if the winter is not over yet. Wanted to set Camp1 at 6200m tomorrow, but the avalanche danger is much to high..

April 9, 2011

Now, my tent (the so called unanimously Dracula's Fortress) completely covered with snow. Strange enough, heavily thundering and lightening.

April 9, 2011

Weather having not a good pattern yet: clear in the morning, starting snowing at about 2pm.

April 9, 2011

Today prepared my 5 stars high altitude hotel. One more equipment barrel to reach Base Camp.

April 8, 2011

Just checked in Kangchenjunga Base Camp at 5470m. Finally. Going the whole day through a strenuous glaciated labyrinth in a tough blizzard.

April 7, 2011

Still could not totally manage our porter's problem. To short the space to try to explain here. Hopefully tomorrow we will reach base camp.

April 5, 2011

Just had a first glimpse at Kangchenjunga: gigantesque enormously huge. Camped at 4800m, with Jannu-7710m near by. One more day to Base Camp.

April 5, 2011

Ramze acclimatization camp. Alex Gavan on Radio Guerrilla (in Romanian)

Audio File

April 4, 2011

Two more days to Base Camp

Alex just succeeded in making the internet work and sent us this first photo with Pawel and himself on their acclimatization camp in Ramze. You can see Ratong - 6679m, into the background. Two more days to Base Camp!  
April 3, 2011

Snowed heavily most of the night; woke up to clear the tent ; avalanches roaring down the walls. Most of our stuff still 3 days behind.

April 3, 2011

Ramze, 4615m. Already in the high mountain area, splendid day, no clouds, still no sight of Kang but magnificent scenery of Ratong-6679m.

April 3, 2011

As always when first reaching this height I am feeling the altitude a bit; we'll spent here the next 2,3 days for proper acclimatisation.

April 2, 2011

În marş spre Kangchenjunga (articol Romania libera)

Alpinistul Alex Găvan va încerca să escaladeze în primavara acestui an vârful Kangchenjunga din Himalaya, al treilea ca înălţime din lume. Situat undeva la graniţa dintre Nepal şi India, Kangchenjunga are o înălţime de 8586 m şi ...
April 2, 2011

Tseram, 3870m. Walked most of the day through a fully blossomed Rhododendron forest and centuries old trees. Passed a small Buddhist shrine

April 2, 2011

and from beyound this point the valley is considered sacred. Still no glimpse of the high summits since they are covered by clouds.

April 1, 2011

Just arrived in Torontan at 3060m after a rainy 15 Km trek ,reaching previously 3520m on Deorali Danda; total height gained today 1690m;

April 1, 2011

total height loss 750m. Just going now up the valley of Simbuwa Khola will take us to the Yalung Glacier and from there to the Base Camp.

March 31, 2011

Pawel played a practical joke on me in the morning for April's 1st: a big snake entering our room during the night;he was quite convincing

March 30, 2011

Heavily raining all night and today till noon. The porter carring my trekking barrel left without notice letting me without any waterproof

March 30, 2011

equipment. The professional's solution: a very ordinarry plastic bag over my head and backpack. Porters stopped less than half the distance

March 30, 2011

planned for today and there was no way to make them continue. Now in the Tamang village of Khebang (1800m),in a Lord of the Rings' scenerry.

March 28, 2011

The first trekking day to Kangchenjunga - Alex Gavan on Radio Guerrilla (in Romanian)

Audio File

March 28, 2011

Today our porters arrived in Tharpu from a one day walking distance village; men and women as well since it is difficult to find just men.

March 28, 2011

We will need around 45 of them. Musonic showers each afternoon. At a local school kids have energy as for all the 14 eight-thousanders.

March 27, 2011

We left Kathmandu yesterday morning and first took the local flight to Bhadrapur in Eastern Nepal.

March 27, 2011

It's an extremely hot and humid town in the middle of the Terai's jungle,

March 27, 2011

located just a few meters above sea level and close to the Indian border. Even with the jeep's windows tightly shot and with the scarves

March 27, 2011

over the faces, for these days we got our lungs filled with a huge quantity of dust wich also found its way into our luggage. From the Ilam

March 27, 2011

region, worldwide famous for its tea plantations, we quickly started to gain altitude and we are now at 1500m in Tharpu village,

March 27, 2011

the place from wich we will start our trekking to Kangchenjunga. Some challenges with sending updates via my sattelite modem.

March 21, 2011
Deserted Kathmandu

Kathmandu, Day 1

After a long day's after-flight sleep I just found a deserted Kathmandu and absolutely no place where to have my dinner: I'm really starving, it's 10 pm, March 22th and it's all closed.  The city had always strucked me with this ...
March 19, 2011

Packing and repacking my big blue plastic expedition barrels to send them cargo to Kathmandu. Lots of stuff, not so much space. Kang, he ...

March 18, 2011

In dialogue with Dragos Nicolae

A few days ago I had a  "before departure" chat with Dragos Nicolae. ------------De ce te temi cel mai mult într-o expediţie? A.G. De mine însumi. Cel mai mare inamic al tău eşti chiar tu. Este adevărat că şi partenerii tăi ...
March 16, 2011

Alex Gavan on Radio Guerrilla - about the incoming Kangchenjunga expedition (in Romanian)

Audio File

March 15, 2011

Almost taking off

My departure date is approaching fast and these last days I'm in the "fine tuning everything" phase. I am looking forward to meeting Pawel, Mario and Antonello in Kathmandu. I'll be trying to update my webpage as often as ...
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